Tofino Hot Springs
The only accessible hot springs on Vancouver Island are found at Hot Springs Cove. While western British Columbia lies on the Juan de Fuca fault line, not many hot springs in our province are easily accessible. Nor would I consider those at Hot Springs Cove ‘easily’ accessible, but alas they are accessible. While advertised as Tofino hot springs, these springs are actually located on the end of a peninsula connected to Vancouver Island by way of Hesquiaht First Nation. Tofino is the closest town to the springs but visitors from both Tofino and Ucluelet can make this destination part of their trip. Let’s get into all you need to know when visiting Hot Springs Cove.
Getting There
In 2019, on our last full day in Ucluelet we booked a full day activity: a boat tour to visit Hot Springs Cove with Jamie’s Whaling Station. In 2023, a single ticket from this company runs $230 CAD. This particular tour departed from Tofino. The tour operator escorted a small group of us across the Pacific Ocean. Our destination was Hot Spring Cove which is about 40 km from Tofino by boat. In fact, this destination is not accessible by road, only by boat or plane. However, that happens to be a perk of the journey. On the way to and from our main destination, our boat operator made a point to seek out waterways he knew whales and other sea life were want to hang out.
What To Expect
Budget six hours for the entire trip excluding time to get to your tour operator’s departure location. The boat ride to the cove is 1.5 hours in each direction. Alternatively, you could also choose to fly in on a seaplane which takes about 20 minutes. Typically, your tour operator will allow three hours for you to hike through the rainforest to reach the natural springs, enjoy, and return. Be sure to bring a towel, a snack, and water at a minimum. Additionally, water shoes would make navigating the slippery and sometimes jagged rocks of the springs easier on your feet. You should also bring a change of clothes if you don’t want to be hiking and sitting the boat ride back in a wet suit.
If boat rides make you nauseous perhaps opt for the plane travel. The boat used for our tour was not overly large and as such we felt every wave on the way. Likewise, on the way back, the diesel smell from the engine combined with being confined in the cabin were making me a bit sea-sick. Luckily, I managed to keep it together until we hit land. Even still, I thought this site was well worth the visit. Especially considering how rare accessible, natural hot springs are in British Columbia.
Whale Watching
On the way to the cove, we spotted two Pacific grey whales surfacing and harbour seals. On the way back, we were graced with the friendly faces of a family of sea otters. They were floating on their backs in a gaggle of seaweed. The boat operator informed us that all sea otters choose a special stone they use to open shellfish with and keep the stone tucked in their fur. They all also either choose to use the stone as a hammer or an anvil; either bashing the shellfish with the stone or bashing the shellfish against the stone. We were also fortunate to see a humpback whale surface repeatedly. He put on a show for us and a few other boats. Apparently he was a young male trying to court the largest sight-seeing boat.
Hot Springs Cove
The Hike In
We were dropped off at the dock at Hot Springs Cove. We were given a few hours to hike into the hot spring, enjoy, and make it back to the boat for pick-up. The hike in is 30 minutes on a raised wooden platform with some stairs through lush rainforest, but a fairly easy activity. At the hot spring site you’ll find a covered changing area, place to store your things and bathrooms. 109 degree Celsius water flows downstream to the ocean due to a fault in the earth’s crust in that spot. Large rocks in the area managed to catch some of the water into little pools.
The Pools
We were advised by a local that a boulder slide recently (2019) occurred in the springs, disrupting the pools, and making them a lot smaller than they had previously been. The pools available were a meandering string of shallow basins cradled between tall rock walls. Some areas were up to an average person’s waste and others just the ankle. To enjoy a full soak you did need to lay down. The pools cooled successively as they head closer to the ocean. Speaking of, you’ll get to appreciate the superb view of the ocean while you relax in rejuvenating waters.
Getting down into the pools was precarious as you need to traverse slippery rocks on a slope. I learned that traveling over natural hot springs with a sprained ankle is a not a suitable replacement activity for surfing. Whoops! The scamper down was so treacherous I didn’t risk bringing my phone (for photos) in case of unrepairable damage. It was stated that the local companies only bring a certain number of visitors to the springs each day. Even still, the pools were a bit crowded. We had to wait about 10 to 20 minutes for others to get out of the pools to even attempt going down the rocks. Keep this in mind when planning your visit to Hot Springs Cove.
Ending the Day with Dinner in Tofino
After enjoying the pools and having a small lunch we changed and hiked our way back to the boat for the return journey. Arriving back in Tofino, we were tired but fulfilled. Dinner at The Schooner was the perfect way to end the day. We were seated on their large patio and enjoyed some local brews from the Tofino Brewing Company. Much like most of the restaurants in Ucluelet and Tofino, The Schooner has a generous selection of seafood dishes. And rightly so; when water surrounds you on nearly all sides, fresh fish is easy to come by. The fresh shellfish combined with the crisp beer hit the spot. To read about our full five day trip to Ucluelet click here.
All My Relations,
– Shauna
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