Experience the Wild of the Pacific West Coast

The small town of Ucluelet is dwarfed in notoriety by its northern neighbour, Tofino. However, not only is Ucluelet more affordable but shouldn’t be overlooked as a destination in its own right. Meaning ‘people of the safe habour’ in the native Nootka language, this town rests on unceded Nuu-chah-nulth territory. Ucluelet and Tofino are both situated on the Pacific Rim. Between them rests Long Beach, the longest and largest beach in the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve. This entire area is a top draw for surfers and other adventure tourists from all over the world. Keep reading to find out how to spend five days in Ucluelet.

Getting There

In the summer of 2019, my partner and I took a road trip from Surrey, BC to Ucluelet to stay for five days on the gorgeous Pacific Rim. Ucluelet is on the western side of Vancouver Island. There are only two ways to this island: ferry or flight. The majority of local travelers will take one of the ferries leaving Tsawwassen or Horseshoe Bay and make for Nanaimo, BC. You can walk on to one of these provincial water transports for a nominal fee; however, you’ll find the lack of a private vehicle quite the inconvenience.

Transportation

BUS

British Columbia is vast and the majority of transportation between cities just doesn’t exist except for by private vehicle. However, there is a bus service called the Vancouver Island Connector that connects all major cities on Vancouver Island to one another. You can use the Tofino Bus service to travel from Nanaimo to Ucluelet or Tofino. Although this service has only one stop in Ucluelet, it will drop you off in downtown Ucluelet by the aquarium. If this is your only option it will at least get the job done. However, to truly enjoy your trip I would encourage driving or renting a car for the purpose.

DRIVE

Commonly, you can drive your vehicle onto a BC Ferry for a price determined by size and number of travellers. Over-sized vehicles or those with cargo carriers or towing toys will cost more. A return trip, with two passengers, in a regular sized vehicle will run you about $200. This includes the $17 reservation fee for each leg of the trip. You can reserve your desired departure time using their online booking service or by calling. If you’re travelling on a long weekend or any weekend in the summer months this is highly recommended.

FERRY SAILING

Ferry sailings fill up fast and if you don’t have a reservation you could be waiting several sailings to board. Each sailing takes 1.4 hours. You’re looking at 2 hours of waiting for each ferry sailing you miss as you have to allow for unloading and boarding delays. If you missed getting a reservation, it’s best to get there as early as possible to guarantee you get on a sailing. The earliest sailings usually leave at 6:30am. The closest ferry terminal to downtown Vancouver is Horseshoe Bay which is about 25 minutes away by car.

On our trip we reserved our sailing from Tsawwassen to Nanaimo which meant our arrival trip was stress-free. However, because we did not know what time we would be leaving Ucluelet and as such arriving in Nanaimo, we didn’t book a reservation for our departure trip. We just missed making it onto the sailing that began boarding right when we arrived. We had to wait the two hours for the next sailing. Additionally, BC Ferry employees board reservations first. Depending on how many people are waiting you might miss the next sailing too. The thought that we might miss the second sailing and have to wait for a third ferry definitely meant our trip home was not stress-free!

FLY

Your last option for travel to Vancouver Island is flight. Roundtrip flights from Vancouver to Tofino, which is only a 45 minute flight, will run you approximately $300-500 depending on the time of year. The higher prices will be throughout June, July, and August and any long weekend associated with a Canadian statutory holiday. Continually, you may find yourself in need of a vehicle in Ucluelet or Tofino to truly make the most or your trip.

Making the Most of your Transportation

Another reason to drive instead of fly is the drive from Nanaimo to the Pacific Rim which is gorgeous. You will wind through MacMillan Provincial Park, home of the Cathedral Grove, a lush old-growth forest towering in at 80 metres. Given the use of a vehicle, you’ll be able to stop at this worthy site and gaze up at 800 year old Douglas Firs. This will give the traveller to British Columbia a sense of what the land looked like before the arrival of European settlers. You can also stop at the town of Coombs to see the goats on the roof at the Old Country Market. Yes, literal goats on the roof! After driving for 2 hours and 40 minutes from Nanaimo due west through Vancouver Island, you’ll reach your destination, Ucluelet.

Day 1

Accommodations

As recounted, you’ll spend day one getting to Ucluelet (or Tofino) which in itself is a trip worth taking. Check into your accommodation which range from camping to high-end beach front resorts. We stayed for 5 nights at the Reef Point Cottages located at 1012 Peninsula Road. We had a studio apartment with a king bed for the rate of $856.75 CAD ($171/night) which I found a bit pricey. Since Ucluelet and Tofino are top tourism destinations in British Columbia, you’ll find most furnished accommodations on the higher end. If price is an issue, consider camping at one of the pristine spots along the coast between Ucluelet and Tofino.

CAMPING

The Pacific Rim National Park is managed federally and offers a range of camping experiences. Fees range from group camping on Long Beach for $7.25/per person/per night to spots serviced with electricity for $34.50/per night. All camping at Pacific Rim National Park requires a reservation which can be made here and should be done months in advance. Pacific Rim National Park also charges for daily entry and beach walks. Seniors receive a discount and youth and children are free. There are other campgrounds outside of this national park that are available. Check out this blog post for list of recommendations.

Dinner

For dinner, the Floathouse Patio & Grill at 200 Hemlock St immensely impressed us. As the name suggests, this restaurant is floating in the harbour and offers beautiful views of the east side of Ucluelet. Whenever on the water, I always opt for seafood dishes with the assumption that the fish and shellfish will be fresh. The Floathouse did not disappoint. My partner and I both had their award-winning clam chowder to start. I ordered the Blackened Rockfish for my entrée which was topped with mango salsa (delicious). My partner can’t help himself but order ribs if they’re on the menu. Luckily for him, Floathouse’s ribs were up to the task. After dinner, we meandered around the harbour, taking in the sunset before heading back to our studio cottage for the evening.

Tip: Get to the Floathouse early or make reservations. At 7pm they put a closed sign out front no longer taking any more patrons. There aren’t many sit down restaurants in Ucluelet and Floathouse could possibly be their top offering. As such, the wait for a table was quite long but well worth it.

Day 2

Hiking the Wild Pacific Trail

On our first full day in Ucluelet we hiked the Lighthouse Loop which is a section of the Wild Pacific Trail. The trail is at the most southern point of the Ucluelet peninsula and starts at a gravel parking lot. The full loop is 2.6km and will take about 45 – 60 minutes. You should allow extra time to enjoy the scenic views. There isn’t one part of this hike that doesn’t have a photo-worthy sight of the ocean which had me stopping frequently to enjoy. The grade is easy and I managed it with an ankle healing from a severe sprain.

AMPHITRITE LIGHTHOUSE

Notable features of the Lighthouse Loop include the Amphitrite Lighthouse which was built in response to the shipwreck at the Pass of Melfort. The building that stands now replaced the original in 1915 in order to better withstand hurricane force winds on the west coast. As a result, the building is quite short and stubby but I suppose all the better to endure the weather.

BOG WOODLAND INTERPRETIVE LOOP

Another feature is the Bog Woodland Interpretive Loop which was identified by a university as a cedar swamp. As such, the builders suggest this part of the trail is unsuitable for strollers or those with balance issues as the trail is narrow, built up over timber, and bouncy! The trail contains sensitive and rare swamp species such as carnivorous flowers. There are eleven interpretive signs to guide you through the experience. This detour is short but well worth a look.

We visited in 2019 and since then an interpretive trail of mudflats called Spring Cove has opened which offers bird watching in a wetland ecosystem.

Little Beach

After hiking the Lighthouse Loop you might fancy a beverage while enjoying the view at Little Beach which faces west on the Ucluelet peninsula. We had recently purchased beach chairs that we brought with us and treated ourselves to some local craft brewed beer listening to the waves crash in. Little Beach is also a BC Heritage Site where archaeologists have found evidence of an old First Nations midden.

Dinner in Tofino

For dinner we trekked the 35 minute drive to Tofino. We decided on a restaurant called Shelter and were again not disappointed. I had the Seared Wild Sockeye Salmon and Eddy ordered the Red Thai Coconut Curry seafood dinner. Once again, my rule that if you’re near the ocean order the seafood held true. Both dishes were fresh and delicious. I thought the ambience in this restaurant was unique and welcoming. They also have some unique menu items such as a roasted olive appetizer. That was the first time I tried warm olives!

Day 3

Kayak Tour of Ucluelet Harbour

I had booked a guided kayak tour of the Ucluelet Harbour prior to arrival. The tour operator was Hello Nature who provided all the gear and thoughtful guides. We had a thorough tutorial before getting in the water. Even still a couple of the tour attendees nearly tipped their kayaks upon entry. No one actually fell in thankfully. Kayaking this harbour was great for wildlife watching. We saw a black bear with her cub on the opposite shore, jellyfish, and curious seals that came to the surface to see us. The seal heads popping out of the ocean looked just like Labrador Retrievers (minus the floppy ears).

Once back at our cottage and showered we found ourselves too fatigued to venture out for dinner. We picked up some items at the local Co-op grocery store and prepared dinner ourselves that night in our studio apartment.

Day 4

Wandering Ucluelet

UNIQUE SHOPS

You’ll also find a couple t-shirt shops that sell garments with prints from local artists. At the shop called Pina there was a pillow with a woman stylized like a cougar, holding a rifle, dressed in a granny nightgown that reminded me of my grandmother. I didn’t buy it at the time because I thought it was a bit steep for $45 CAD. However, on the way out of town I stopped back at the store and ran in to buy the pillow. The sales associate told me the most intriguing story about the inspiration behind the print:

Cougar Annie was a pioneer who settled in Clayoquot Sound in the early 20th century. She had four husbands, many dying from somewhat dubious circumstances: drowned in boating accident; accidental self-inflicted gunshot wound; and pneumonia. With each passing of a husband, she advertised in a local newspaper as a widow seeking a new husband for her homestead. She earned her monoker “Cougar Annie” because of cougar death count whom she killed in self-defense but later became a bounty-hunter.

Lunch at a Food Truck

We had seen lineups at Jiggers food truck as we drove around Ucluelet. Naturally we made a point of having lunch there. Jiggers serves fish and chips from locally caught fish. With big portions and fresh fish, I would recommend this spot. If you love seafood, you might also like to try the Ravenlady Oyster Forte food truck. Oysters are sourced from about an hour away. It’s located in a piazza with west coast inspired sculptures including a raven lady which the food truck is named after.

Ucluelet Aquarium

The Ucluelet Aquarium is a destination completely unique to the west coast. It also might be the quaintest marine exhibit you’ll ever visit. In 2019, this was the only catch and release aquarium in Canada. Each winter, all specimens are collected from the Barkley and Clayoquot Sounds and their habitats are recreated in the exhibit. Many of the displays are interactive which was fun for us but great for kids. The water in the exhibits is drawn right from the harbour outside. At the end of the season, and after veterinary examination, all species are returned to the area they were collected from. A visitor could expect to spend a solid hour perusing this one of a kind collection.

Dinner in Ucluelet

We enjoyed the food at the Floathouse so much on night one that we returned here on night four. We reordered the clam chowder to start because it was so exceptional the first time. Once again, the seafood dish choices did not disappoint. And we were smarter the second time, heading to the restaurant early, to avoid the wait and ensure we got a table.

Whale Watching

On the way to the cove, we spotted two Pacific grey whales surfacing and harbour seals. On the way back, we were graced with the friendly faces of a family of sea otters. They were floating on their backs in a gaggle of seaweed. The boat operator informed us that all sea otters choose a special stone they use to open shellfish with. They all also either choose to use the stone as a hammer or an anvil. Either bashing the shellfish with the stone or bashing the shellfish against the stone. We were also fortunate to see a humpback whale surface repeatedly and put on a show for us and a few other boats. Apparently he was a young male trying to court the largest sight-seeing boat.

While our tour’s intent was not whale watching, it was definitely a lovely addition. If the hot spring destination doesn’t seem like your cup of tea, there are plenty of tours on the Pacific Rim that just focus on whale and wildlife watching. There are an number of businesses operating from Tofino including Jamie’s Whaling Station and Tofino Whale Watching Tours. Archipelago Wildlife Cruises is a tour that departs from Ucluelet if you wish not to commute to the north end of the peninsula. Two and half hour tours seem to run from $129 to $149 per person and the Archipelago Wildlife Cruises has a five and half hour tour for $219 per person. All have discounts for seniors, youth, and children.

Hot Springs Cove

On our hot spring specific tour, we were dropped off at the dock and given a few hours to hike into the hot spring, enjoy, and make it back to the boat for pick-up. At the hot spring site you’ll find a covered changing area, place to store your things and bathrooms. A local advised us that a boulder slide recently occurred in the springs, disrupting the pools, and making them a lot smaller than they had previously been.

The pools available were a meandering string of shallow basins cradled between tall rock walls. Some areas were up to an average person’s waste and others just the ankle. The pools cooled successively as they head closer to the ocean. Speaking of, you’ll get to appreciate the superb view of the ocean while you relax in rejuvenating waters.

Getting down into the pools was precarious as you need to traverse slippery rocks on a slope. I learned that traveling over natural hot springs with a sprained ankle is a not a suitable replacement activity for surfing. Whoops! Additionally, the pools were a bit crowded. We had to wait a bit for others to get out of the pools to even attempt going down the rocks. However, this site was well worth the visit, especially considering how rare accessible, natural hot springs are in British Columbia. For more on the Hot Springs Cove see my blog post dedicated to this spot.

Dinner in Tofino

For our last dinner on the Pacific Rim we chose to stay in Tofino and at dined The Schooner. We were seated on their large patio and enjoyed some local brews from the Tofino Brewing Company. Much like most of the restaurants in Ucluelet and Tofino, The Schooner has a generous selection of seafood dishes. And rightly so; when water surrounds you on nearly all sides, fresh fish is easy to come by. Anytime mussels are on the appetizer menu Eddy and I generally go for it as it’s a favourite for both of us. With that in mind, we started with the island mussels and clam bowl. The fresh shellfish combined with the crisp beer hit the spot.

Notably mains at The Schooner include a seafood hot pot, local salmon cooked on a cedar plank, and the admiral’s plate which includes salmon, cod, halibut, oysters (both cooked and raw), prawns, scallops, mussels, and clams! If I’m not mistaken, this was the restaurant in Tofino that had signage outside warning vegans there was nothing inside for them. At least they’re upfront! After our dinner and possibly another beer, we headed south back to Ucluelet with the intention of stopping off at Long Beach to take in the views.

Stroll Long Beach

In the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve, Long Beach is the longest stretch of sandy beach on the west coast of Vancouver Island. Pretty much every beach activity you can think of is enjoyed here including kayaking, swimming, skim boarding, paddle boarding, sun bathing, but the big one here is surfing. Tofino is an international location for surfing. In fact, there are at least eleven surf schools in the area.

My original motivation for planning a trip to Ucluelet was to enjoy some surfing. However, I severely sprained my ankle a few weeks before our trip. I actually re-sprained an old injury that l incurred in Seville in 2016. I was pretty furious that this injury was going to upset another trip. Eventually I came to terms that on this trip I just wasn’t going to find myself on a surf board, or even a stand up paddle board for that matter. However, we still made the most of our trip and managed to find lots of activities to fill five days.

Sunset Viewing on Long Beach

As I was not physically able to enjoy water activities at the time, we stopped off at Long Beach just to enjoy the views. Depending on the tides, you might also be able to explore some rocky crags that showcase micro highlights of west coast sea life. Strolling along one of the many beaches, you’ll probably see surfing, perhaps both classes and those a bit more proficient who are there with their boards. Planning a picnic on one of the beaches would also be a worthy activity to fit into your itinerary. Most of the beaches on the Pacific Rim have sufficient parking; however, due to their popularity parking is not free. For that reason, I would reserve at least an hour to enjoy the beach to the make the most of your parking fee.

Other Ways to Spend Five Days in Ucluelet

Surfing in Tofino

If you’re able, taking a surf class on the Pacific Rim is an activity you should add to your itinerary. As noted, there are a number of surf schools in both Tofino and Ucluelet that will equip, instruct, and transport you to location. You can find some of them at Tourism Tofino. Most classes in the area last about 3 hours. You should also expect the water to be cold which means you’ll want to be wearing a wetsuit. Being able to swim is also a must as you’ll be spending some time in deep water that can sometimes be dangerous due to rip currents. There are also no lifeguards on duty at any of the beaches in Tofino.

Storm Watching

Another big draw on the west coast is storm watching. Storm season starts in November and continues through to March. According to Tofino-Ucluelet.com seven meter seas are common during storm season. One can expect ten meter seas during the ‘big storm’ of the year. For storm watching, Tofino and Ucluelet have plenty of accommodations and resorts whose property is water-front so you can view safely and warmly from indoors. However, know that whenever you visit you’ll likely get rained on no matter the season.

Weather in Ucluelet and Tofino

Ucluelet and Tofino and both notoriously wet. Even when not raining you’ll find that the atmosphere is damp due to the humidity which often is close to 100%. British Columbians know that if you visit this area and get sunny weather you’ve truly lucked out. When I was a teenager, we camped in Tofino for a week and it down poured rain for the entire time we were there. That was in the summer. In 2019, we also visited in August. After looking at weather patterns that was my best hope for some decent weather. And we did in fact luck out. While it was not hot, it was mostly rain-free for our five days and the sun even peeked out at times.

If you’re looking for the warmest month, plan for August. The coldest month will be December. The wettest month is November and March is the windiest.

Leaving Ucluelet

On the morning of the sixth day we headed back home to the Lower Mainland. Construction caused waits for us on the BC-4 highway which is very common in BC in the summer. Because I was unsure of how long we would take getting to the ferry port on the east coast, I didn’t reserve a sailing. While that choice meant we didn’t have to rush to meet our reservation, it also meant we were at the mercy of the BC Ferries. There’s about two hours in between sailings so missing one and potentially two is not ideal! Of course, we eventually made it on and enjoyed our sailing home. Next time I would definitely make the ferry reservation and ensure that our return trip was planned accordingly.

We left Ucluelet with the impression that we would be back. We loved the local seafood, the activities, and the wild beauty. Have you been to Ucluelet or Tofino? If you have, let me know what you thought of your trip in the comments. If you haven’t, does either town seem like somewhere you’d enjoy visiting?

All my relations,
– Shauna