A Medieval City with Templar Lore

If you intend on visiting Paris for more than a couple days it’s likely you may plan a day trip outside of the city. We all know Versailles makes every list for best day trip from Paris. Chartres falls a little under the radar. What originally prompted me to add it to my itinerary is the city’s ties to the Knights Templars. And the gorgeous cathedral of course. Let’s get into my definitive travel guide for Chartres, France.

Getting from Paris to Chartres

The best way to travel to Chartres from Paris is by train. Train travel in Europe is bar-none. I know their intra-continental flights are cheap, but I still prefer the train. The trip is a little over an hour. Departing from Montparnasse train station, a round trip will run you as little as $60 CAD. This is the 2^nd class ticket price. Occasionally 1^st class tickets are available. The 2^nd class ticket is more than comfortable so don’t feel the need to splurge. There are no connections to make on this route that is operated by SNCF (France’s national state-owned rail company).

You could also rent a car in Paris and drive the 78km to Chartres. A basic car rental in Paris will run you about $150 CAD/day give or take the model you want and how much insurance you’re willing to pay for. This does not include gas or any tolls. If you’re planning to need the car for other adventures it may be worth it, however, the trip to Chartres by train is easy and affordable.

Getting Around Chartres

Chartres can be largely explored on foot. First, make your way to the The Tourist Office. Once you leave Gare de Chartres walk toward the cathedral. Trust me, you can’t miss it. The tourist office is slightly south and east of the cathedral. In 2016 there were directions on the street to the office. Here you can find free maps of the city and bus routes if needed. If you plan to visit La Maison Picassiette you should definitely ask for directions here. If want to request a guided tour at one of Chartres’ many tourist sites, this would be the place to ask. For sure, guided tours are organized here for of La Maison Picassiette and the Beaux-arts Museum.

Visit the Gothic Cathedral

Any travel guide for Chartres would be remiss if it didn’t mention the cathedral. The Cathedral of Our Lady of Chartres is considered one of the finest surviving High Gothic cathedrals. A ‘masterpiece’ of French gothic architecture. Stand back at the edge of the square and take in the cathedral. I think you’ll agree it’s a finer church than Notre-Dame de Paris. Visitors have access to two guided tours as long as services are not ongoing. The tours are 10€ a person. You can also climb the steps of the north bell tower and view the city from above.

Tours

Malcolm Miller operates a tour at noon everyday but Sunday from Easter to late October. He is available by special request in the offseason. Anne Marie Woods operates the 2:45pm tour which also includes the crypt. This runs from May 1^st to September 30^th. Both tours leave from the gift shop. I had the privilege of touring with Malcolm and can’t recommend him enough. His knowledge of the cathedral is immense. He spends a great deal of time explaining the stained glass windows. I would love to pick his brain about his thoughts on Templar connections to the Cathedral.

However, I have read online that Mr. Miller is notoriously unreliable. At 86 can you blame him for cancelling a few tours? I feel incredibly lucky that we got to experience his immense appreciation for this church which he refers to as a library. I also think that Ms. Woods must get the shaft by tourists who want the Miller experience. I would advise not to hesitate to take a tour from her if you end up there and Malcolm is not available. Now, I’m about to do a deep dive on Chartres Cathedral history so if that’s not your jam skip ahead to Other Notable Features of the Cathedral.

The Asymmetrical Towers

North Tower

Not symmetrical like Notre-Dame de Paris, you’ll notice its two towers are mismatched. This is because they were built, and rebuilt due to fires, at different times. The north tower, today more flamboyantly gothic, was begun in 1134 to replace a Romanesque-style tower. Finished in 1150, it was originally only two storeys tall and had a flat, lead roof. Both towers survived the 1194 fire that destroyed much of the church. Later, in the early 16^th century, architect Jehan de Beauce re-designed the north tower to give it a height and style closer to the south tower. It ended up taller AND flashier. This is the tower you see today.

South Tower

The south tower’s construction started around 1144. It was more ambitious than the original north tower. Impressively, it was built without a wooden framework. The octagonal roof spire is ‘unique in the world’ as noted by contemporary artists and writers. With the fire of 1194, the western façade, its two towers, and the crypt are all that survived.

Gothic or Romanesque?

It’s intriguing to me that this cathedral is considered a masterpiece of Gothic architecture when it is actually a melding of late Romanesque and Gothic Styles. Observed from the western face, or the front, most of the arched doorways and windows are not pointed. From the two towers down, the building is much blockier than the other sides. This plants the western façade firmly in Romanesque style, to my eyes.

As discussed, the south tower differs drastically to the flamboyantly Gothic north tower. The north tower you see today was built in the 1500s. Certainly Gothic by its decorations. From the north and south facades, and interior you’ll find the pointed arches, stained glass, flying buttresses, and vaulted ceilings that signal the height of Gothic architecture. Personally, the marriage of the two styles isn’t a problem.

The Crypts

Built on the site of five earlier churches, much of the building you see today dates to 1194-1260 CE. However, one of the oldest parts of the church is the crypt. We were lucky enough to visit during an offering of a tour, albeit in French, that we happily joined. The crypt of Chartres Cathedral is actually composed of two crypts from two separate and earlier churches. The smaller, interior crypt is credited to Gallo-Roman times and is said to be from the first building that stood there. The exterior crypt, that circles the Gallo-Roman one, is from the 11^th century and features Romanesque architecture.

Both crypts are accessible to the public. Some of the original figure sculptures from the Middle Ages have been removed from the exterior and placed inside to protect from weathering. You’ll see these inside. Additionally, a medieval, pre-perspective fresco from the 12th century is remarkably well-preserved here. If you find yourself here for Templar history, you can’t miss the Templar cross stamped into the pedestal of the crypt’s chapel. I was disappointed that neither the French tour operator, nor the detailed Malcolm Miller, mentioned anything about the Templars.

The Cathedral and French History

Coronations

The Chartres Cathedral has the honour of being one of few sites that a French monarch has been crowned. Reims Cathedral is the traditional location for coronation of French kings. In 1594, both Reims and Paris were occupied by the Catholic League and so King Henry IV of France was crowned in Chartres.

French Revolution

The cathedral was largely spared from damage during the French Revolution. This wasn’t meant to be its fate though. Revolutionary forces attacked and destroyed some of the north side. They were stopped by a larger crowd of townspeople. Later, it was targeted for destruction via explosives. A local architect convinced the Revolutionary Committee that the explosion would cause so much rubble and debris it would take years to clear away. Luckily, the Cathedral was spared. Inside you can see graffiti from the French Revolution period along the pillars of the nave.

World War II

In World War II, again the cathedral was targeted for destruction as American troops thought it was a site of German occupation. Colonel Welborn Barton Griffith Jr. questioned his order to destroy the cathedral. He scouted the cathedral, confirmed it was empty, and had the bells wrung. This signalled to the Americans that the site was safe and Chartres Cathedral was again spared. The Colonel who secured the Cathedral’s future unfortunately died in action later that same day.

Knights Templar Lore

Templar History

It is proposed by Templar historians that the Knights Templar are behind the building of many of the great architectural feats of Medieval Europe. The construction of Chartres Cathedral matches a Templar timeline. After the 1129 Council of Troyes the order was officially recognized in Europe. The two towers were built around 1150 CE. The crypt and western façade pre-date this. The remaining church built after the 1194 fire. The dissolution of the order occurred in 1307 when the French King, Phillip IV, ordered the arrests of scores of French Templars and subsequently pressured the pope to call for the arrest and seizure of their property across Europe.

Templars and Chartres History

Due to their extensive financial resources, the order funded many building projects around Europe. As mentioned, the Templar cross can be seen in the crypt’s chapel. What other evidence is there that the Knights Templar had a hand in the building or future use of Chartres Cathedral? At the Council of Troyes, when the order was legally founded two notable Chartres residents were present: the Count of Blois and Chartres (Thibaud-le-Grand) and the Bishop of Chartres (Goeffrey de Lèves). No doubt this would help the Order’s development in the area.

Templar Insignia

Aside from the Templar cross in the crypt, on the north façade above the door there is further evidence. A carving alludes to an object associated with Templar lore: the Ark of the Covenant. Supposedly, the Knights Templar discovered something of great importance while digging under Solomon’s Temple in Jerusalem in the early 1100s. Legends claim that this sacred chest was deposited for safe-keeping in Chartres Cathedral. Apparently for centuries. Also, apparently in the crypt. The carving above the north door alludes to the transport of the Ark of the Covenant on some kind of wheeled transport. Keep in mind, this is all conjecture. I would love for this spicy bit of history to be true. However, to date the teeniest of Templar hints are all we have to go off of.

Other Notable Features of the Cathedral

The Labyrinth

In the centre of the nave, you’ll find the labyrinth. Not exactly what you’re imagining. No maze with high walls stands here. Instead, a meditative course is cut into the stonework of the floor. This was installed so that monks could practice their devotion to God. Often on their knees, they would pray in silence while shuffling through the labyrinth. Only one path leads to the centre and so signifies the devotee’s relationship with their faith. You’ll find the labyrinth cleared for tourists only on Fridays.

Relics of the Virgin Mary

Chartres Cathedral is purportedly the home to the Virgin Mary’s tunic worn during the birth of Christ. Another wild claim is that it was gifted to the church by Charlemagne during his crusade to Jerusalem. As Charlemagne’s attendance in this crusade has been disproven, we know for certain that this part is legend. If a relic was gifted to Chartres it would have been by Charles the Bald, the grandson of Charlemagne. There was great anxiety that the Sancta Camisa was lost to the 1194 fire. Popular belief is that the tunic was saved through a miracle. In reality, the story goes that monks fleeing the fire retrieved it before evacuating. Maybe that in itself is a miracle.

Stained Glass

This Cathedral is well-known for its beautifully well-preserved stained glass windows. Many panels tell a story. In fact, this was a common way that illiterate peasantry were educated about the stories of the Bible. As the Bible was only published in Latin and much of the sermon was spoken in Latin (the mass entirely in Latin and the homily in vernacular), deciphering stained glass windows and other religious artworks would have been a common skill.

Remarkable is that Chartres Cathedral contains the largest collection of Medieval-era stained glass anywhere in the world. The windows were well-known for their deep, cobalt blue. The rose windows on the south, west, and north facades are something that you simply must observe from within.

Chartres Cathedral Visitor Info

• Open daily 8:30am – 7:30pm
• The labyrinth is cleared for walking only on Fridays.
• The crypts can be visited only by guided tour and they aren’t available on Sundays or holidays.
• Last entrance for the tower climb is at 5:30pm.

La Maison Picassiette

We spent so much time at the cathedral that the only other thing we really had time for, aside from food of course, was La Maison Picassiette. The Picassiette house was a private residence in which one, Raymond Isidore, spent much of his life covering internally and externally in ceramic mosaics. I had to add this stop to our day trip because it’s so unique.

Getting There

To get there take the bus: Filibus line 4, Picassiette stop. For exact instructions inquire in the Chartres tourism centre near the Cathedral, mentioned at the top of this post. No reservation is needed although there is an entrance fee of 6€ a person. The residence is open to visitors from March 15 to November 15. Hours of operation differ depending on the day, for exact times check the website.

A Labor of Love

Raymond Isidore began decorating the inside of this home with tiny broken fragments of ceramics in 1938. He moved on to the exterior after the interior was complete. According to his wife, he spent “29,000 hours for which he handled 4 million pieces of crockery, or 15 tons. He continued until he left”. This is a marvel that one truly needs to see to believe.

On this property, and of course decorated in the ceramic mosaics are the family home, a chapel, a courtyard, a summer house, a garden, and a tomb. The tomb is more artistic than literal. Apparently, this was his ultimate creation, representing celestial space. Wander around the residence and you’ll notice all sorts of intricate details. The bulldog head pictured is one of my favourite fragments. Isidore collected his materials from broken crockery found in landfills. His nickname is fitting then: Picasso of the Plate aka ‘Picassiette’.

Other Activities in Chartres

Musée des Beaux-Arts

Located right next to the Cathedral, on the northeast side, this building is a former episcopal palace. Actually, it’s a set of buildings ranging from the 15^th to the 18^th centuries. The Museum houses collections from the Middle Ages to the 20^th century. What you can expect to see inside?

• Glasswork from early 20^th century artist Henri Navarre
• French Baroque painter Hyacinthe Rigaud famous for royal portraits
• Still lifes from 18^th century painter Jean-Baptiste-Siméon Chardin
• Works by Maurice de Vlaminck, one of the principal figures in the Fauve movement

Beaux-arts Museum Visitor Information

• Address: 29, Notre-Dame cloister, 28000 Chartres
• Free self-guided tours and guided tours available through payment at the Tourism Office.
• Check the website for hours of operation as they vary based on the time of year and day of the week.

Archaeologist – City of Chartres

If archaeology peaks your interest, check out the City of Chartres Archaeologist website before your trip. The project has a range of exhibits including its newest display about the Merovingian dynasty. Guided tours are available to the public on a specific days and times. Location and further details on their website.

International Stained Glass Centre

The only centre of its kind in France. Within you’ll find a stained glass museum with examples dating back to the Renaissance. Contemporary stained glass panels are featured as well. This centre is an actual functioning training ground for tradespeople. For those not employed in the field, you can also find history and art courses related to the Cathedral, which is nearby. Full admission is 7€. Open daily from 2:00pm to 5:45pm.

L’Odysee

An aquatic centre with pretty much every amenity you could think of. Pools, Jacuzzis, saunas, spa, gym, and an ice rink. There is even a 20 metre deep diving tank. Prices range depending on the services you wish to use. Open daily with reduced hours on Saturday and Sunday.

Times of the Year

Chartres en Lumière is a whimsical light display set against the backdrop of the Cathedral. Two things are required to see this gorgeous display: night-time and the right time of the year. The display runs from approximately July to January in the evening. The light display is also set against the fine art museum, other churches, bridges, the media library, streets, and squares. If you happen to be in the city for nightfall, don’t miss it! Check the website for exact dates and times (although note it has been cancelled in 2020 due to Covid-19).

Wine and Dine in a Medieval City

I was privileged to enjoy two meals in Chartres. Do you think I remember the name of either place I patronized? Nope. The first was a Middle Eastern sandwich shop that we stopped at for lunch. This was a deli style counter where you order and usually take your meal to go, although the store accommodated a few tables and chairs. I remember no complaints with this place. Dinner is what really stands out to me.

Duck Confit and Beef Tartar

I remember the restaurant was close to the cathedral. Not too close to be a tourist trap but definitely not far. On the south side, or the same side as the tourism office. The service was traditional and quaint. Everything you’d expect from a French restaurant outside of Paris. They let the food speak for itself. I had duck for the first time and enjoyed every bit of its crisped, fatty skin combined with juicy, tender meat.

I must confess that before my partner, Eddy, I was a stereotypical North American afraid of the food that the rest of the world consumed. The peasant dishes. The nose to tail type eating. Thanks to his patience and perseverance my palette has expanded considerably. Now I try not to judge those Canadians and Americans that are afraid of food because I once was one. That’s not to say that duck is anything exotic, but under different circumstances I might have picked something safer.

I don’t remember what our entire group ordered, but one of the four had beef tartar. There were no complaints. It’s possible the restaurant was La Café Serpent. It’s a little too close to the cathedral to be considered a ‘safe’ choice for good food. However, I remember our group’s hesitation about wondering too far astray in fear of missing our return train to Paris. This is really of no consequence as there are a myriad of excellent restaurants in Chartres. Don’t be afraid to just sit down somewhere.

Ironically, after this lengthy discussion, I’m sure there’s more to Chartres that I’ve missed. Whatever its secrets hold, I know it’s a stop in northern France you shouldn’t miss. If you’ve been to Chartres tell me your favourite memory in the comments.

All My Relations

– Shauna

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Sources

1. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chartres_Cathedral
2. https://wikitravel.org/en/Chartres
3. https://www.newworldencyclopedia.org/entry/Chartres_Cathedral#Knights_Templar_legend
4. https://frenchmoments.eu/chartres-cathedral/#The_Stained-Glass_Windows